Sushi was something I gave up during the height of the pandemic last year. The thought of raw seafood — even if it was from a favorite restaurant — traveling from one borough to another wasn’t appealing (or affordable). Dining at a tiny sushi counter wasn’t an option in most cases. Enter Saishin by Kissaki, a pop-up sushi restaurant with rooftop views at the Gansevoort hotel in the Meatpacking District. The omakase experience here — though not inexpensive at $150 for 15 courses, it’s still a relative bargain compared to many over-the-top menus at some of the city’s best sushi restaurants — reminded me how much I missed quality sushi. Our parade of dishes started with a briny Kumamoto oyster topped with a lobe of buttery sea urchin. Next came pristine cuts of tuna, saba, salmon, and other fish I lost track of because I was too busy looking at the skyline views and thinking how good it felt to be dining out again.