The pocket sized restaurant Saishin by Kissaki is hidden away from the raucous bar scene of the Gansevoort Meatpacking rooftop through a hard to find black door. But once through it, you’ll find a black and gold sushi counter and even better, several outdoor tables raised on a platform that seem to put you in touching distance to the panorama of lighted skyscrapers.
There are a la carte items on the menu such as Kumamoto oyster with uni and ikura white soy gelee and an array of sushi including otoro (bluefin tuna belly), nodoguru (black throat sea perch) and kinmedai (golden eye snapper.) But the main event here is a 12 or 15 course omakase and it’s exquisite, presenting a succession of dishes such as bonito in ponzu sauce, amberjack in a chili vinaigrette, medium bluefin tuna with truffle and toro tartare over rice. Elsewhere on the roof, some of the simpler preparations—sushi, sashimi and rolls- are available in the Gansevoort Rooftop restaurant. And guests of the hotel, the only ones who have access to the pool, can also have a selection of maki poolside.