But new places by the score are bravely taking the plunge to replace them. Since indoor dining was restored in February, debuts have included posh-Indian Sona, ultra-lux Le Pavillon, revived Southern-American classic Gage & Tollner, Japanese-influenced Cantonese Cha Kee, omakase-heaven Saishin (on the Gansevoort Hotel rooftop, no less), Peruvian-themed Contento, Turkish-tinted Greek Iris and just-launched, Southeast-Asian fantasy Wau.